‘Every Cook Must Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on Roll of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.

Lisa Rowe
Lisa Rowe

Lena is a Berlin-based software engineer specializing in AI applications and modern web frameworks, sharing her expertise through in-depth technical articles.